Friday, June 4, 2010

Back to Basic's

This is a dress made by Betty D. Showing how you can use the basic bodice pattern to make a whole new design.   The instructions were shared on Everythingsewing web site.  For instructions which include pictures vist La sewista's blog.  She did a wonderful picture tutorial making this dress step by step.  I will just re-post the instructions as given by Betty as I don't think I could do as perfect a job as Bunny has done showing step by step instructions.

1. Trace one full front and two backs of a bodice pattern. ( I use light weight sew in pellon because I can write on it and it is sturdy ). Fold center backs on the fold line and cut lining for bodice (three pieces), put it aside for a long time, don't lose it. Lining only goes to fold line.

2. Draw a line on the front pattern starting on the stitching line of the right shoulder, going across the front as low as you want, and curving to the other arm hole. Cut the extra off allowing for a seam then match it up with the back pattern and cut the extra off that one too. Mark a line/notch for both center backs .

3. Draw a vertical line on the front pattern past center front, match up the back pattern with another vertical line. Be sure to use the correct back. Now put an arrow and note to add seam lines, cut both front and back on these lines.. Line up the pattern pieces, should have 6, left to right starting with FULL BACK- LARGEST FRONT- SMALL FRONT- SMALL UNDER ARM BACK-CENTER BACK. Put a "X" on each piece to indicate the top. ALSO mark each one IF it will be the PRINT or SOLID. (ask me how I knew to do this *-*) Cut these out on correct fabric and sew together at the under arm seams LEAVE shoulder seam unsewed.

4. Measure the printed bodice top and the solid top both at the waist. Allow one and a half OR twice for the skirt pieces.Cut these two skirt pieces out (correct fabrics) allowing for hems and seam allowances. Measure the back printed short piece at the waist to center back, allow for gathers and make a slit at center back for a placket and finish it. Next, sew the printed top to the printed skirt and the solid top to the solid skirt.

5. Time to make the cording. I use the 100% cotton "peaches n cream" and I also preshrink to be safe. Cut bias strips and sew enough together for the cording full length of dress front and back. Sew enough bias for the four spaghetti straps, no cording in these. Sew cording in at the start and anchor well, don't sew right next to the cord, give a little room to turn. After sewing, trim seam to fit in the turned straps, then pull on the cord to turn.

6. Sew cording in the front between the two fronts, doing the same for the dress back. Cut the spaghetti straps into four lengths. Pin two on the front hanging down and the same on the back, line these up to match front. Right side together, pin lining across the top, fold back facings on fold line and pin the lining on top. then sew across top. Trim seam and press toward the lining......understitch. Turn lining back RST and sew the arm hole, beginning and stopping ONE INCH from the shoulder on front and back seams trim, and turn lining back to inside. Sew shoulder seam, trim a little and finish the lining there by hand. Pin bottom of lining to the waist and hand sew to finish.

7. I prefer a not too wide sash for this dress, cut a length of your choice about 3 1/4" wide, sew long side and taper at the ends, turn. Remember to cut one print and one solid. Sew these on the correct color side seams with ends toward front, trim and stitch/zig-zag near cut edge, fold sash toward back and bar tack in two/three times to hold in place. Hem, button holes, and buttons.

8. PM me if you need help understanding my instructions, will do my best to explain. Promise to share pictures, the choice of fabrics etc. make each one different.

Every seamstress wants to see/share. Betty

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